Chambord (France, Spring 2015)

Chambord CastleAs predicted, today it’s raining, but not wanting to miss a day, we drove to Chambord. Renaissance chateau and what a setting.  On the grounds, acres of grounds, a “pond” had been built for boating. And all those fairy-tale towers. That was one of the attractions: we were able to climb up to the roof using a famous double-helix of stairs, that means those going up didn’t meet those coming down, although we could peek through tiny windows at other tourists.Chambord Towers

The castle was built for Francois I as a “hunting lodge.” Evidently never furnished because it had too many windows and high ceilings and was impossible to heat. When Francois came to hunt, beds, tables, hangings, even food had to be brought along, the last because there was no local village. Very practical! In addition the surrounding land was swampy and summers brought out the mosquitoes.

After years of restoration and abandonment, it was given to one of the final “kings” of France (after Napoleon – a very confusing part of French history); the man ruled for 7 days, was overthrown and went into in exile for 40 years, he eventually came back. We saw his coaches – OMG, pomp still. You’d think after exile he’d take the hint that the monarchy was over…

Chambord coach

A historical tidbit: He was born 7 months after his father died. There was no courtier in the room at his birth, so other pretenders to the throne said he was not a French prince. My hubby joked about his portrait: if you squint he looks like his father but perhaps more resembles the guard.

The castle, unlike Versailles, is mainly empty. The view from the roof to the courtyard was fun. And Chambord courtyardwe were entertained by a horse troupe as we left. The stables were originally for over 1000 horses. Seems extreme until you remember everything – travel, hunting, plowing, fighting – was done with horses.Chambord horse

Chambord was easily the most castle beautiful site we’ve seen, but not my favorite. There’s such a surface on Renaissance castles, it’s had to imagine anyone living in them. I have always imagined their public lives to be as false as their housing and because in castles, we usually don’t get to see the private rooms, it’s hard to imagine how they lived. It does say something that members of the court stood around while the queen was giving birth…

Although the grounds were crowded with families, we remarked on how quiet the French kids are on the whole. Drive home through fields and fields. Strange red tipped plants. Also some fluffy grain. I suspect my mother, a Kansas girl, could have identified it. Sun and shadow and green. Wonderful. Nap. Then out but the supermarket is closed. We have pizza. Good pizza. But how big is a 33 cm pizza? Too big! Dinner is done about 9:00. We’re becoming French 🙂 Chambord field


  1. Margaret says:

    Terri -Love your writing! I can sit back and just imagine I am there!

  2. So beautiful, but this kind of extravagance says a lot about why the regular people in France wanted to get rid of the monarchy. Can you imagine how much manure came from 1,000 horses?!

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